My wife and I got married November of 21’ and to mark the occasion we decided to take our honeymoon trip to one of our favorite places, Florence, Italy.
Florence is a city that holds on to its past and cherishes it. It invites all with a romantic disposition to come and take part and bask in its beauty. Megan and I’s first time there together was in 2016 during a three month trip abroad. We stayed there over a month and used the time to study some figure drawing and painting at the Russian academy in Florence. It was October, we were in love, we drank lots of wine, had pizza as frequently as our budget would allow, and drew and painted our way through and around the city.
We opened up and it changed us.
That trip reformed my inner compass and helped shape my sensibilities in a profound way. It is one of the only places that when I get off the plane or train I think, “I’m home.” Since then we have been back twice, each time refreshing our spirits in the proverbial creative fountain of youth that is Florence. Retracing the steps of the Renaissance legends, the Macchiaioli, Sargent, and Annigoni(to name a couple) to try to imagine the world they must of lived in. To think about how much things have changed since they’ve gone. How much is the same?
This summer we rented a little apartment off of Via Giampaolo Orsini. This area was ideal for us to call home whilst there, as it was an easy fifteen or so minute walk to the city center. We did all of our favorite things: Paint, drink coffee, workout, explore, museum hop, people watch, and by God, drink too much wine…
We made it a point this summer to see some things that we hadn’t before(which isn’t hard to do), like the Rose Garden, which is a beautiful spot to paint and have a few glasses of wine in the evening or even mix up a couple of Negronis in a bottle or a limoncello spritz for cocktails(there is in fact bagged ice in Italy available at the stores, its Ghiaccio). One of the more delightful things about Europe in general, is that you can disappear in the seas of tourists. No one notices the man or woman indulging in a a glass of wine with a cobbled together charcuterie board sitting on a step or a bench in the park. There is a definite “laissez faire” attitude towards public smoking and drinking in most large European cities that I rather enjoy. Which furthers my belief that no cafes stand up to the magesty and love of an impromptu happy hour that I can carry in my backpack. Word to the wise, bring the Swiss Army Knife with the wine bottle opener.
Some highlights of the trip for me (besides living in Italy with my wife), were: A lecture on Sorolla by Tom Richards(Florence Academy), the Sorolla show in Milan, the Donatello show at the Palazzo Strazzo, making friends with new and incredible people(Delfina), our day trip to Cinque Terre, sunset cocktails at “House of the People” in Fiesole, our trip to the Prado, and especially the absolute surprise and wonder that was the Museu Nacional d'Art de Catalunya and the Turner show that was on display there(the large Fortuny painting hanging there is worth the flight alone from wherever you are in the world).
If you ever get a chance to go to Firenze, stop in at Zecchi, and spend the day walking down every street you can manage. Stop for a Negroni or two. Eat the whole pizza. Have an espresso. Bring some one you love. Be present.
It’s a fine place to measure yourself up to the giants, but eventually you just have to get on with it.
Until next time.
“Summertime Jasmine.” Whatever the EU equivalent to 12x16 inches is. Oil on a Zecchi gesso panel. The smell of Jasmine reminds me of all things wholesome and good. My home in Phoenix, spending time in Firenze, and of course spending time down at our family home in Mexico.
Jamon in Madrid.
Wall of Pigments at Zecchi’s
Fortuny’s micro paint box at the Museu Nacional D'art Barcelona. Must have been like 6x8 inches. I get so much joy from all aspects of art, from the finished work to brushes and palette box.
Room for three wet panels.
Turner’s sketchbook at the Museu Nacional D'art Barcelona in their Turner exhibition. I have long been a great admirer of all of his sketchbook work. To see the way he would come up with his source material and then actualize it in to large, finished paintings always brings a smile to my face. No photos here.
Massive Work at The Museu Nacional d'Art de Catalunya, Barcelona by Fortuny. It was truly a surprise and completely floored me. “The Battle of Tetuan,” 3 x 9.72 meters. The painting would prove to be Fortuny’s largest most ambitious painting that he would sadly never get around to finishing. Much of Fortuny’s work is very diminutive in size and very detailed and lively. To see this paintings and see how he managed to retain that sense of detail and life in the work was impressive. I also can sympathize with him as someone he tends to work much more comfortably at a smaller scale I have a couple works that are taking years because I can lose momentum and get distracted by another work.
Turner.
Turner.
A rare public siting of a work by Antonio Lopez Garcia at the Museu Nacional d'Art de Catalunya, Barcelona.
More Fortuny.
Fortuny.
Stained glass, and the displays of Gaudi’s design works and others working in his tutelage made this museums one of the most inspiring I’ve ever been to. Green being a favorite color of mine, the wall color was very comforting and countered the warmth of the wood and Bronze works displayed.
Landing in Firenze, Italia. The Duomo.
First Cappuccino and pasticcino in Florence.
Beer.
Painting with Megan on the Arno at night. The Ponte Vecchio will always be a wonderful motif.
Evening at the Rose Garden.
Painting in the shade during the hot summer Florentine days.
Church in Fiesole.
Midday Shadows.
Last light over Florence and the Arno.
Painting at the Piazza Michelangelo. Painting shoulder to shoulder.
Professional photo shoot with a photographer from Flagstaff, AZ. A small world.
Details from the Cathedral in Milano.
Sorolla exhibition in the Palazzo Reale. A mammoth show spanning the artists life. Amazing to see the change in his work over his career. Certainly a fantastic painter from a young age. You can see the leap where he starts painting out of doors on a large scale and bringing powerful everyday life narrative that the paintings become iconic. One will always compare themselves to Sorolla and aim to paint larger. To reach. That was my take away. Also, on a technical note, I really enjoyed seeing how much cobalt violet he was using in his later works. The violet permeated through the works all over and created a real sense of warmth.
David, Michelangelo.
Botticelli at the Uffizi.
Botticelli.
Pizza at Affe di Bacco. Tremendous.
Vernazza, Italy.
Pizza at Mangia. Original, small and intimate spot. The owner makes the pizzas, and he is amazing. He has a fiery disposition and great pride in his work.
Donatello show at the Palazzo Strozzo in Florence. Transcendent. The man was a genius.
Decorative ornamentation. I wish the western United States had more beautiful architecture and tasteful details. This was at our more modern Apartment complex.
Summer Daze at the Boboli Gardens.
Getting flooded out of spot in Venezia. Cheers!